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Laptop battery life

Batteries are consumable. They wear out with use, in every laptop ever made, and a battery in a refurbished machine has had some life already.

Battery capacity loss is not covered by the warranty. Our warranty is explicit about this: a natural decrease in capacity over time is expected and is treated as wear, not a fault.

The distinction that matters:

  • A battery that won’t charge or holds no charge at all is a hardware fault, and it’s covered.
  • A battery that works but doesn’t last as long as a new laptop’s would is wear, and it isn’t covered.

So: expect good, useful battery life, but not the same as a brand-new laptop. If all-day battery is essential to how you work, ask us about fitting a new battery before you buy. It’s an inexpensive option and much cheaper than being disappointed.

Windows can produce a full report on the battery, including how its current capacity compares to when it was new.

  1. Right-click the Start button → Terminal (or Command Prompt).

  2. Type this and press Enter:

    powercfg /batteryreport
  3. It tells you where it saved the report, usually your user folder. Open that HTML file in a browser.

  4. Find Design Capacity and Full Charge Capacity. The second as a percentage of the first is your battery’s health.

If that number looks far worse than the machine’s condition and grade would suggest, tell us. Send the report and your order number and we’ll look at it.

The settings that actually matter, in order of impact:

Screen brightness. By a distance the biggest drain. Turning it down is worth more than every other tip combined.

Power mode. Settings → System → Power & battery → Power mode → Best power efficiency.

Browser tabs and background apps. Each one costs power. The tab playing video you forgot about costs a lot.

Battery saver. Set it to switch on automatically at 20%, or turn it on manually when you know you’re going to be away from power.

Modern laptop batteries are lithium-ion, and the things that age them are heat and sitting at extremes of charge.

  • Don’t let it get hot. Heat is what kills batteries. Don’t leave it in a car or work with it on a doona blocking the vents.
  • Leaving it plugged in is fine. Modern laptops stop charging at 100%, so you aren’t “overcharging” it. This is an old myth from a different battery chemistry.
  • If your laptop offers a charge limit setting (many business models do, often capping at 80%), and the machine mostly lives on a desk, turn it on. Keeping a battery off a full charge meaningfully extends its life.
  • Don’t run it flat repeatedly. Deep discharges age a battery faster than topping it up.
  1. Try a different charger if you can borrow one. Chargers fail more often than batteries.
  2. Check the charging port for lint or debris. Surprisingly often, that’s the answer.
  3. Look for a charging light. No light with a known-good charger points to the port or the board rather than the battery.

If it genuinely won’t charge at all, that’s a hardware fault rather than wear, and it is covered. See Making a warranty claim.

Yes. Batteries are usually replaceable, and on a machine that’s otherwise doing its job it’s an inexpensive way to get years more out of it. Ask us for a price with your model.